Janet Arnold's bibliography

Deborah Pulliam posted to the Historic Costume list the following bibliography and comments (amended only as for conversion to HTML) (used by permission © 1997 Deborah Pulliam):

Because of some of the confusion over her writing, Janet Arnold asked me to post her bibliography here for those of you interested in finding some of the articles, etc. published in the past. Because it is so long, I'm posting it in two parts. This message includes books, published conference papers and contributions to exhbition catalogs. The following message will include articles in periodicals. (ed. both included here)

And in answer to some of the questions about her background and sewing skills, she holds a certificate in arts and crafts, a national diploma of design in dress, a certificate of education, and art teacher's diploma. She worked for about ten years cutting period costumes and working in the wardrobes of several theater companies in England. She also has industrial and couture experience in cutting and sewing. She is not a conservator, nor is she a curator.

List of Publications: Janet Arnold FSA


Patterns of Fashion 1 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1660-1860) --Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition 1977.

Patterns of Fashion 2 (cut and construction of women's clothing, 1860-1940) --Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972.

Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women 1560-1620 -- Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986.

Perukes and Periwigs -- HMSO, 1970. A booklet on the development of wig styles in paintings at the National Portrait Gallery, London.

A Handbook of Costume -- Macmillan 1973. Reprinted 1978. A guide to the primary sources for costume study.

'Lost from Her Majesty's Back'-- The Costume Society, 1980. Items of clothing and jewels lost or given away by Queen Elizabeth I between 1561 and 1583, entered in one of the day books kept for the records of the Wardrobe of Robes.

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd -- W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988.
A study of the clothes worn by Queen Elizabeth I, basd on portraits, warrants for the Wardrobe of Ribes, and other material. Inluces full transcription of the inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in 1600, preserved in the British Library, Public Records Office, London, and the Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington Dc.


Costume -- a general costume bibliography, with Pegaret Anthony. Victoria and Albert in association with the Costume Society, 1966. Revised 1974, reprinted 1977.

Two patterns of early 18 century mantuas -- for the London Museum catalog, Women's Costume 1600 - 1750, HMSO 1969.

Papers in the proceedings of the annual Costume Society conference:
"The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1890- 1914", in La Belle Epoque, 1967, pp 21-36.
"The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1860- 1890", in High Victorian, 1968, pp 21 - 29.
"The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1830- 1860", in Early Victorian, 1969, pp 12 - 19.
"The Clasical Influence on the Cut, Construction, and Decoration of Women's Dress, 1785 - 1820", in The So Called Age of Elegance, 1970, pp 17 - 23.

"The Dressmaker's Craft", in Strata of Society, 1973, pp 29 - 40.

"Sweet England's Jewels" and catalog entries for portraits in Princely Magnificence, catalog of the exhibition of European Renaissance Court Jewellry, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1980, pp 31 - 40, 99 - 112.

Research and illustrations contributed to "Il Reauro degli abiti funebri dei Medici: Studi preliminari", an exhibition at the Palazzo Pitti, February 1985. Centro Di, Florence, 1985.

"Preliminary investigation into the Medici Graves Clothes", in Il Costume nell'eta'del Pinascimento, Edifir, Florence, 1988, pp 149 - 157.

"The Cut and Consturction of Women's Clothes in the Eighteenth Century", with three patterns, in Revolution in Fashion 1715 - 1815, catalog of the exhibition at Kyoto Costume Institute, Japan, 1989, pp 126 - 134.

Editor for English edition of Katia Johansen, Royal Gowns, exhibition catalog, Rosenborg Palace, Copenhagen, 1990.

"Smocks, shirts, falling bands and mantuas", a paper on evidence of early ready-to-wear clothing, Per Una Storia della Moda Pronta: problemi e richerche Atti del V Convegno Internazionale del CISST, Milano, 26-28 Febbrario 1990, Florence, 1991, pp 17 - 27.

"Queen Elizabeth's Jewels" in The International Silver and Jewellry Fair and Seminar, London 1991, pp 35 - 36.

"Clothes from the Point of View of the Historian" in Bevarandets Hemlighet: The Secret of Preservation Revealed, catalog of the exhibition at the Livurstkammaren, Stockholm, 1991, pp 41 - 44.

"Cut and Construction", in Moda all Coret edi Medici: gli abiti restaurati di Copsimo, Eleonora e Don Garzia, catalog of the exhibition at the Pitti Palace, Centro Di, Florence, 1993, pp 49 - 73.

Catalog entries on wigs and items of dress in The Funeral Effigies of Westminster Abbey, Woodbridge, 1994.

"Liveries at the Court of Queen Elizabeth I" in Le Trame della Moda, atti del Seminario Internazionale svoltosi a Urbino il 7-8 Ottobre 1992 promosso dal Centro Italiano per lo studio della Storio del Tessuto e dal Centro Studi sulle Societa d'antico Regime Europa delle Corti, Bulzoni, Milan, 1995, pp 253 - 274.


"A silver tissue dress c 1660, from the Museum of Costume, Bath" in Costume.(the journal of the Costume Society), London (first series), #2, 1966.

"An evening dress of 1893, from the London Museum" in Costume, London, first series, #3, 1966.

"A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in Costume, London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21.

"A caftan said to have been worn by Selim I (1512 - 20)" in Costume, London,#2, 1968, pp 49 - 52.

"A pink silk domino from the Victoria and Albert Museum, c. 1760 - 70" in Costume, London, #3, 1969, pp 31 - 34.

"A mantua c. 1708 - 09, from Clive House Musuem, Shrewsbury" in Costume, London, #4, 1970, pp 26 - 31.

"A study of three jerkins" in Costume, London, #5, 1971, pp 36 - 45.

"The exhibition of costumes for the BBC/TV series 'The Six Wives of Henry VIII' and 'Elizabeth R', in MAG, No. 10, Transactions of the Museum Assistants' Group for 1971, pp 7 - 14.

"A court mantua of c. 1740" in Costume, London,#6, 1972, pp 48 - 52.

"A court mantua of c. 1760 - 65" in Costume, London, #7, 1973, pp7 - 14.

"Sir Richard Cotton's suit" in The Burlington Magazine, CXV, no. 842, May 1973, pp 326 - 329.

"Three examples of late sixteenth and early seventeenth century neckwear", in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 15, part 2, 1973, pp 109 - 124.

"Reminiscences of a Court Dressmaker" in Costume, London, #8, 1974, pp 22 - 25.

"Decorative features: pinking, snipping and slashing" in Costume, London, #9, 1975, pp 22 - 26.

"An Edinburgh tailor's story" in Costume, London, #10, 1976, pp 74 - 85.

"Fashions in Miniature" in Costume, London, #11, 1977, pp 45 - 55.

"Elizabethan and Jacobean smocks and shirts" in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 19, part 2, 1977, pp 89 - 110.

"Nils Sture's suit", Costume, London, #12, 1978, pp 13 - 26.

"The 'Coronation' portrait of Queen Elizabeth I", The Burlington Magazine, CXX, no. 908, November 1978, pp 727 - 241.

"Two Early Seventeenth Century Fencing Doublets" in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 21, part 2, 1979, pp 107 - 120.

"Jane Lambarde's Mantle" in Costume,. London, #14, 1980, pp 56 - 72.

"A Sack Gown from the Haddington Collection at the National Museum of Antiquities of Scotland, Edinburgh" in Studies in Conservation, no. 25, 1980, pp 19 - 27.

"An Early Seventeenth Century Woman's Riding Doublet or Cassock" in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 22, part 2, 1980, pp 113 - 128.

"A Woman's Doublet of about 1585" in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 23, part 2, 1981, pp 132 - 142.

"The 'Picture' of Elizabeth I when Princess" in The Burlington Magazine, CXXIII, no. 938, May 1981, pp 303 - 304.

"A Labour'd Hoop to ornament the Fair" in The Journal of the International Association of Costume, Tokyo, #2, 1985, pp 6 - 12.

"A court mantua from the Haddington Collection in the Royal Museum of Scotland, Ediburgh, in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 28, part 1, 1986, pp 37 - 48.

"The Golden Gown of Queen Margareta in Uppsala Cathedral", long review with evidence for redating from 1363 to c. 1469, in Waffen-und Kostumkunde, Munich, vol. 29, part 2, 1986, pp 148 - 151.

"The 'Armada' portraits of Queen Elizabeth I" in Apollo, Vol. CXXIX, no. 326 (new series), April 1989, pp 242 - 246.

"A study of the clothes and regalia depicted on the tomb of Queen Elizabeth I in Westminister Abbey" in The Journal of the International Association of Costume, Tokyo, #7, 1990,. pp 11 - 28.

"Dolphins and Flaming Hearts" in Haandorbejdets Fremme: The Danish Handcraft Guild, vol. 57, no. 2, 1991, pp 31 - 33.

"The Kirtle, or Surcoat, and Mantle of the Most Noble Order of the Garter worn by Christian IV, King of Denmark and Norway" in The Antiquaries Journal, vol. 72, 1992, pp141 - 167.

"The Jupon, or coat-armor, of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral" in Church Monuments, the Journal of the Church Monument Society, VIII, 1993, pp 12 - 24.

"Costumes for masques and other entertainments c. 1500 - 1640" in Historical Dance, the journal of the Dolmetsch Historical Dance Society, 3, no. 2, 1993, pp 3 - 20.

"A Prelate's robe for the Most Noble Order of the Garter worn by the Right Reverend Sir Jonathan Trelawney 3rd Bart., Lord Bishop of Winchester, in 1707" in Costume, London, #28, 1994, pp 22 - 36.

"An innovative method for mounting the sixteenth century doublet and trunkhose worn by Don Garzia de'Medici" with Mary Westerman Bulgarella, in Costume, London, #30, 1996, pp 47 - 55.

"The Comte de Toulouse's 'Months of Lucas' Tapestries: sixteenth century designs with eighteenth century additions" with Edith Standen, in The Metropolitan Museum Journal, #31, 1996, pp 59 - 79.

"The Graves Clothes of Ferdinand I of Hapsburg, 1564" in Costume in Context, UKIC, Textile Section, postprints of the forum held at the Guildhall, Bath, 11 March 1996, pp 10 - 11. Edited by Frances Lennard.

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